A ‘Super Palate’ Comes in Handy
Partnering Chef-Besh Steak Chef de Cuisine Jared Tees
Jared Tees has loved steak for as long as he can remember. His overall love affair with food, however, began as an unexpected pleasure when, as a teenager, he had the opportunity one summer to spend a month in Greece. Being able to smell and taste the freshest produce and farm products at the street markets on a daily basis launched a remarkable sensory development in his palate – to the point that he was actually able to smell salt and taste water. This was something the young Tees had never experienced before, and eventually he came to realize that this ability wasn’t exactly a universal human experience: he possessed a ‘superpower’ of sorts. He filed it away as an unusual quirk, and got on with his life as a teenager.
Tees put himself through the University of Arkansas on a swimming scholarship, developing all the discipline, drive, and team spirit necessary for the grueling pre-dawn practices and long hours of competition. His character grew to have a strong desire and dedication to be the best, not only for him, but for the team. Unbelievably, he also mustered the time and energy to work in a local chain restaurant for extra change. He fell in love with the energy and entertainment of the restaurant industry, learning to purchase, cook, bartend, and master nearly every other facet of the business. His manager, recognizing Tees’ drive, suggested that he consider culinary school — in a flash, Tees realized that his ‘gifted’ palate was to be the key to his career.
In his mind, there was only one place to take the plunge into the culinary world, and that was New Orleans. Tees’ energy and work ethic carried over from college to culinary training; he paid his way working various restaurant jobs seven days a week and attending classes part-time. His efforts paid off, landing him a job with renowned New Orleans chef Jamie Shannon. Through his mentor, and after Jamie’s untimely death in 2001, Tees struck up a friendship with the up-and-coming Chef John Besh.
They found themselves participating in many of the same charity events, and shared a love of hunting and fishing, which dovetail nicely with their passion for cooking. Tees turned to Besh after Katrina, and asked if he could find a place for him in one of his restaurants. He was willing to work in any capacity, as opportunities of any kind were scare. The timing, as it turned out, could not have been better: Besh was planning to open Lüke, a French brasserie, and had not yet found his chef de cuisine. That search ended when Tees knocked on his door, and in fact, the serendipity of the situation suggested to Besh a way to provide even more security for his friend – and for the new enterprise: he made him a partner. As for Tees, he couldn’t believe his luck. Of the many restaurants where he’d worked, it would be his first opportunity to be truly invested.
Creating the menu for Lüke, Tees and Besh found themselves incorporating dishes that they cooked at home for their own families or when they were out hunting and fishing -- Tees jokes that although he and Besh love to kick back and relax, their out-of-the-kitchen adventures always involve cooking.
In his move within the Besh Restaurant Group to Besh Steak at the Harrah’s casino where he is now Partnering Chef de Cuisine, Tees relishes the same comforting simplicity of the fare – although the bent is now classic American steakhouse, rather than Old World European. “The meat and potatoes and straight-forward seafood at Besh Steak is good, fairly simple, all-American comfort food, but playful and exciting at the same time, in keeping with its casino environment. And, of course, each item on the menu is made from the very best local ingredients.” Local freshness is fundamental to all of John Besh’s cooking (he favors kitchen gardens, farmers markets, and livestock raised specifically for his restaurants.)
Although Jared Tees’ ‘super-human’ sense of flavor gives him a distinct advantage in any kitchen, he wants Besh Steak to be recognized not only for its cuisine, but for a complete experience. “I want people who come here to say that the food was flavorful and fresh; the presentations fun; the timing of the service, perfect; the chef came by to say hello; and they would be back…next week.”