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Coming Full Circle
Wine and Beverage Director Ramón Narváez is Back and On The Way to His Master’s
 
Robert Wiedmaier’s philosophy in life and work as a full-circle chef is much too contagious to ignore.  It’s only natural that the newly returned Wine and Beverage Director of Wiedmaier’s gastronomic empire would take on the role of full-circle sommelier.  Ramón Narváez was just that all along.  Traveling all over the wine regions of France, Portugal, Spain, California, and the Pacific Northwest, seeking out wines and winemakers that he finds inspirational, Narváez visits the vineyards and meets the farmers, handles the grapes and tastes vintages he is considering for the restaurants before they are even bottled.  Back tableside at Marcel’s, Brasserie Beck, Mussel Bar and BRABO, he is able to convey not just a recommendation for the ideal pairing, but a full ‘life history’ of a wine to his guests – “That is,” he laughs, “those who care to hear it.”

Narváez is a warm, personable oenophile who hails not from wine country, but from deep within Venezuela’s rum-producing region.  Although his first degree is in International Business Management, he recognized his own zeal for the hospitality business during college, and followed that degree with another in Hotel and Restaurant Management from the American Travel Institute.  Arriving in Washington, he spent several years learning the ropes at some of the finest hotels in town, including the Westin [now the Fairmont;] the banquet department at the Tysons Corner Ritz-Carlton in Virginia; and the Park Hyatt Washington.  Then excutive chef and owner, Chef Fabrizzio Aielli, asked Narváez to oversee operations at his restaurant Osteria Goldoni, which also meant running a wine program emphasizing Italian and American wines.

After a few years, in March 2002, Narváez joined Robert Wiedmaier at Marcel’s, on the condition that he receive training in the classic wines that suit the restaurant’s fine French cuisine.  Wiedmaier didn’t mess around.  He set his protégé on parallel training tracks:  the formal certification course administered by the Court of Master Sommeliers; and an intensive tutorial with his own former mentor, the legendary Chef Douglas McNeill, a personal program lasting nearly three years that opened doors in Europe’s highest wine circles.  Years later, Narváez continues his formal education, now preparing simultaneously to become a Master Sommelier and a Master of Wine, as well.

After six years at Marcel’s, Narváez became sommelier at Adour, the Alain Ducasse restaurant at Washington’s St. Regis Hotel.  The reason was a very compelling menu concept: it was designed with wine in mind.  As sommelier, Narváez tasted every new dish, including all daily specials, consulting with the chef on any adjustments that might be made to perfect a pairing.  This involvement was essential, because he was tasked by Ducasse himself to pair each dish with both a white and a red wine – to cover any possible guest preferences.  “The level of collaboration was intense,” he recalls, “and Chef Ducasse would come in from time to time and taste the day’s pairings.  I couldn’t have paid for that experience.” 

Today, back at Marcel’s – and the rest of the Robert Wiedmaier family of restaurants – Narváez continues this practice, training the highly skilled staff in his methods.  He makes sure that not only has every server tasted every dish and its ideal wine pairings, but also the daily specials, with theirs.  In addition, he also holds classes on a regular basis for his staff, and blind tastings [“pop quizzes!”]  Narváez ensures that his sommeliers in each restaurant are on track with their formal training and traveling opportunities, just as was done for him.  His educational fervor extends to the general public, as well, and he plans to be offering regular wine classes and tastings with a focus on seasonality, particular regions, and various wine styles. 

In overseeing the wine and beverage programs in his care, Narváez sees his responsibility as ensuring that Robert Wiedmaier’s philosophy of top quality, harmony, and service remains a common thread, without making them “cookie cutter” replicas of each other.  At the flagship, Marcel’s, he lovingly nurtures a world-class wine list, heavily oriented toward the classics, with highly sophisticated service and all the accoutrements.  The spirits at Marcel’s are likewise top of the line.  Brasserie Beck’s heartier Belgian fare and more casual atmosphere allow for, first of all, a great beer program, and also a wine list far beyond that of the typical brasserie; one that is more eclectic and weighted with bigger, New World wines.  The spirits at Beck reflect the youth of the clientele, who are open to trying ‘outside the box’ offerings.  At the very casual Mussel Bar, which also boasts an impressive beer program, Narváez is developing a wine list that is ‘short but interesting,’ offering a wider range than the expected whites and rosés.  BRABO, a warm and elegant restaurant in Old Town Alexandria, and the BRABO Tasting Room, and its gourmet market, Butcher Block, require a diverse but balanced list of classic varietals as well as modern style wines. 

Narváez’s wine lists are perennially honored by Wine Spectator and Wine Enthusiast, and “genius sommelier,” as he is called by Zagat, is fairly typical of how he is described in the press.  Coming back to the Wiedmaier operations, Narváez says “This is family, and I feel like I never left home.  Even if they are calling me the prodigal son!  But seriously,” he goes on, “Chef Robert is my mentor, and he put me where I am today.  I am excited to be a part of the growth of his family.”

Narváez is also clearly excited to be creating a “Wow!” moment for every guest, one wine pairing at a time.